NOTE TO ACCOMPANY PRELIMINARY WARDROBE BREAKDOWN
OF "GONE WITH THE WIND" AS OF JANUARY 11, 1938.
Dress skirts became shorter after 1860. Colored petticoats
were introduced and also colored stockings such as grey silk with red
clocks, etc. The petticoats were invariably richly trimmed with either
lace, embroidery, or open work insertions, or combinations. Handker-
chiefs were an important item of feminine dress. These were very ex-
pensive and elaborate (Balzac said: "The character of a woman could
best be ascertained by the way she held her handkerchief.")
Ornaments were worn days and evenings. Day jewelry of amber,
crystal and Venetian glass beads. For the hair Roman pearls and coral
beads. Bracelets, brooches and other ornaments in the shape of bows.
These could not be too large or striking. It was the fashion to wear
many bracelets on the arms. The ear-rings were very long with hanging
ornaments. Enormously large lockets were worn, and in 1868 large gold
crosses became fashionable. For evening dress diamonds, emeralds and
other precious stones were worn by those who could afford them, and it
became the fashion to change the mountings as often as possible.
In 1860 the, now familiar, straight brimmed sailor hats came in and
small round hats worn on top of the head with a veil down to the tip
of the nose.
Artificial flowers were the favorite decoration for the hair,
and in 1860 the hair begain to be waved. In 1865 the hair was done with
puffs at the top and gathered into a chignon behind. Embellishing the
hair with decorations was paramount. Gold and silver fillers, silk and
velvet ribbons, feathers, nets of gold thread or chenille veils of
blonde lade worked with gold were worn. The Spanish mantilla became a
In 1859 Eugene of France abjured the crinoline. In 1860
Victoria followed her lead and by 1867 it had disappeared forever. In
1868 the first bustles appeared.
In the 60's the heavier silks worn for generations before
were superceded by lighter stuffs such as silk of fine wool, alpaca,
(also called Chinese taffeta) poplin, mohair, foulard, velveteens; and
for summer batiste and linen. Ball dresses were of tulle and tarleton,
and opalescent and shot fabrics. The colors were soft; pearl grey,
sapphire blue, mauve, maze and plain white for evening.
In 1862 bracelets for men appeared, and men discarded the stiff
stock and collars of the previous era and began to use soft shirt collars
and broad neckties.
Balls were the rage. The cotillon being the chief feature.
Costly cotillon favors. Masqued balls were the rage.
The smart folk of the 60's delighted in ridicule and the art
of caricature rose to its zenith. Whole galleries were given over to
exhibits of caricatures. India rubber portraits of eminent people which
could be squeezed into caricatures were the rage.
Gymnastic exercise was thought unseemly. Horse racing, mountain
climbing and skating were most fashionable.